Bills (Again): Yokohama

What better way to celebrate Culture Day in Japan than to visit one of my most loved Sydney chef's restaurant, Bills. This time in Yokohama. Surprisingly, many other people in Yokohama seemed to have the same idea! After a 45 minute wait we were taken to our seat amongst the young couples, puppies, and families on the terrace of the Red Brick Warehouse.

This is now my third visit to Bills in Japan (the first two were to his original restaurant in Shichirigahama) and whilst the food was still delicious, the surroundings lacked some of the charm of sitting on the balcony above the Japanese sea side. I resisted ordering the same things as before, and opted for the potato and feta fritters with cucumber and dill which was crunchy, fresh and delicious. The wagyu burger, although on the small side (I swear this was bigger two years ago?), was juicy and nicely finished with home-made zucchini pickles. And of course, I couldn't leave without the classic Bills ricotta hotcakes. Caramel, banana, ricotta, yum.   

A definite positive of Bills in Yokohama is it's easy access from Tokyo. You can take the Tokyu Toyoko line directly from Shibuya to Minato Mirai, which is a five minute walk form the Red Brick Warehouse (Akarenga). Whilst in Minato Mirai, why not check out the art gallery and take a stroll along the water. It's without doubt a nice break from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo.

Fuji Rock Festival 2011 - Tips and Highlights

It is impossible to describe in a single blog post the balance of harmony and chaos which is Fuji Rock. The setting amongst the mountains and rivers in Naeba is ridiculously beautiful, the multiple stage set up, not to mention hundreds of food and drink stalls, is awe-inspiring, and of course, the music is unmissable. I therefore will share just a few tips and highlights for those who want to venture on the Fuji Rock adventure in years to come.

Before heading to Fuji Rock I did some research on how to get there and where to stay, and was a little disturbed by people's comments that I would be lining up for hours to get on buses, and having to camp kilometers up on one of Naeba's slopes. Being sufficiently freaked out, my friend and I decided to take a Thursday night Shinkansen to avoid the crowds and get a decent camping spot. This was really the beginning to a flawlessly smooth weekend away. Leaving Tokyo Station around 7:30pm, after some initial tent-set-up confusion we were settled and ready for the first drink of the weekend by 10:30.

It is possible to stay at nearby hotels and b&b's, and despite at times wishing I had a proper bed, and more so a proper bathroom, I highly recommend camping within the festival grounds. There is a thick air of excitement around the campsite, and you are also a lot closer to the action of the festival. Each day in fact, I took a quick power nap around 4pm in the tent to prepare myself for the night ahead. Whilst the portable toilets and showers leave little to be desired, the campsite does have a good onsen where for a small fee you can wash yourself efficiently and revive your sore legs in the steaming hot bath.

But of course, you do not go to Fuji Rock just to camp. You go for the music. Each year Fuji Rock draws huge international acts; this year headlining were Coldplay, Arctic Monkeys and the Chemical Brothers. Their elaborate stage shows were fantastic, but what really excited me were the smaller indie bands and international acts from places like Congo and Sudan (which generally played in the Red Marquee and Orange Court). It was at these shows that people would get out of their portable seats, stop politely clapping and swaying to the music, and start going crazy. One late-night act, Congotronics vs Rockers , really exemplified this to me. There is something drug-like to the African beat which forced everyone to scream and jump around for the whole two hour set.

And after two hours of jumping around there is nothing better than to get a vodka with fresh squeezed grapefruit juice and a tasty cheeseburger from one of the international food stands, relax by the river and take in the atmosphere. Around the many stages, amongst the forest and within the river are various art and light installations which come alive at night. Huge eyes adorned one of the tallest trees, and 10 pointed fluro stars hung from the canopies, amongst the disco balls which glittered from within the forest.

My final tip is bring wet weather gear. It rained almost the full three days we were at the festival, and I survived in my flimsy poncho and cheap Muji rain boots, but learnt a good lesson from the Fuji Rock veterans around me; bring proper wet weather gear. Likewise, if camping, it's good to be prepared for the wet weather with some tarps, and preferably a mattress which is raised off the ground.

Whether you are a music fanatic, or just someone who loves to be outdoors and try new things, there is really no better way to spend a 3-day weekend in summer.

Tent city - better than any hotel in town

A river installation of colourful, friendly-faced rocks

Australian band - The Middle East

Spectacular light show, and bouncy balls at Coldplay

Some Doraemon's enjoying the one hour of sunshine

A Weekend at the Beach - Shimoda Japan

As I mentioned in a previous post, escaping the summer heat is a must in the mid-year months, and as always, nothing cures summer stickiness better than a weekend by the sea. Until I lived in Tokyo, I never appreciated so much the cool sea breeze and proximity to a beach where you can wash you sweaty limbs.

Whilst the beaches of Kamakura are closer to Tokyo, if you are happy to venture a little farther you will be well rewarded. Rather than blackish sand and muddy waters, at Shimoda you will find predominantly fine white sand, and gorgeous clear rolling waves in which you can swim. The beaches are surrounded by Minshoku (B&B's), and various places where you can eat, and relax the weekend away. As a side note, Shimoda was the original gaijin (foreginer) entrance point to Japan, where Commodore Perry sailed in, in 1854. Purposefully or not, Perry's legacy must pull a lot of Tokyo foreigners, who swarm the beaches on the summer weekends.

On a recent visit, my friends and I opted to stay at the foreign owned White Beach Hotel rather than a local B&B. Although being slightly overpriced (the rooms and bathrooms are tiny), it is a good option for those who do not speak Japanese. The hotel sat right on Oohama beach, provided towels, sunscreen and bug spray, and had a great joining Italian restaurant.

From Oohama it is nice to walk around the mangroves and watch the hundreds of crabs scurry in to their holes as you approach, as well as hold bbq's and rent kayaks from local businesses. This time I didn't make it in to Shimoda town, but I have heard there are also some nice onsen's and restaurants to try. I am dying to get back there before the summer months are out, so will hopefully have more updates soon!

Oohama Beach

Catching some rays

White Beach Hotel

Pizza from the restaurant

The fastest way to get to Shimoda is to take the Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo Station. Other travel options can be found here.

Beautiful photos courtesy of Evan Blaser.

White Water Rafting in Minakami

As summer envelopes us in Tokyo, you start to become use to the trickles of sweat down your brow, the taste of warm water from a recently purchased bottle, and the feeling of relief when hopping on an airconditioned subway car. The lack of easy access to a pool or beach in Tokyo thus sends people off in search of some cooler, water-based activities. One such activity I undertook last month was white water rafting amongst Japan's beautiful mountain scenery in Minakami.

Minakami is situated in the Gunma prefecture, around one and half hours from Tokyo. We decided to do a rafting tour with Canyon's, who supplied us with wetsuits, rafting guide, and hot post-raft showers. We rafted about 13km down the Tone River along the gorgeous clear water, passing impressive cliff-scapes, onsen towns and river banks along the way.

Canyon's website says the best time to raft in this are is April - July. We went in June, when the rapid were around a grade 4, and it was a lot of fun. Each boat held 6 people, and Canyon's provides both Japanese and English speaking guides. Despite our guide being slightly crude (Australian humour) at times, my friends and I had a great time maneuvering through the rocks and rapids, as well as taking a couple of cliff jumps off surrounding rocks.

Minakami can be accessed via Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo station, or is a great road trip if you have / hire a car. The surrounding area is famous for it's traditional ryokan's along the river, and other sports such as canyoning and bunji jumping.

Suiting up

Photo courtesy canyons.jp

A well deserved post-raft beer on Canyon's deck

Tokyo Food - Bills Shichirigahama

I love the speed of Tokyo, yet every so often I feel the need to really slow down, and get away from the crowds and material temptations. Over the time I've spent in Japan I've discovered there is no place I like to go more than Kamakura, just one hour south of Tokyo. Kamakura offers scenic temples, the sea side, and a wonderful village atmosphere. To really get my taste of home however, I head a little further to Shichirigama to visit Bill Granger's venture in to Japanese dining.

Bills, already a staple in the Sydney brunch scene, has been transported to a Japanese sea-side location, where the food and atmosphere does not disappoint. On a Friday, we already have to put our name on a waiting list at 11:45am, as local's and people who have taken the trip from Tokyo vie to get a seat in the cosy restaurant.

Bills is filled with light, and looks over the rolling waves of Shichirigama. One side of the restaurant has couches and booths to relax in, whereas the other side is a slightly more formal restaurant setting. On this occasion, my friend and I were lucky enough to get a seat right by the balcony. As we watched other people's meals come out around us, we ooo'd and ahhh'd contemplating what to put together for our perfect brunch menu. Bills offers all day breakfast (difficult to come across in Japan), burgers, sandwiches and pastas. The dishes are simple, but come as generous servings cooked to perfection with fresh produce.

We finally settled on sweet corn fritters with crispy bacon to start, followed by a squid and chorizo risotto, and topped off with bill's famous ricotta pancakes which are soft, fluffy and perfectly balanced with maple syrup and banana. Everything was delicious, and we sat grinning from ear to ear as we took each bite.

Shichirigahama beach - Not great for swimming but gorgeous view

To get to bills from Tokyo take the Shonan Shinjuku, or Odakyuu line. A good breakdown of transport options is listed here. From Kamakura or Enoshima, take the local rail (Enoden) to Shichirigahama, and you will find Bills in the modern building in front of the station.

Breakfast and lunch reservations are not accepted, so I recommend getting in early.
Bill's website.

Enjoy!

An Attempt to Hike Mt. Kumotori - Saitama

Golden Week marks a week long holiday in Japan, and with no work, and the warm Spring weather, many people use this time to escape the big city and head in to the Japanese wilderness. A couple of friends and I, somewhat ambitiously, decided to make our way to Saitama, and do a 2 day hike up Kumotori-san.
Despite a few showers, we experienced beautiful weather, magnificent natural scenery and perfect Japanese hospitality. Things at the beginning however, were not so rosy.

Some tips for hiking in Saitama:
1) The express trains to Chichibu National Park, which run hourly from Ikebukuro, are booked well in advance. Pre-book or get in early
2) Despite what many websites and English guide books may tell you, the cable car at the bottom of Mt. Kumotori has not been running for two years. My friends and I discovered this when after the 3 hour journey we asked our bus driver how to get to the cable car, and he informed us it does not exist
3) See above - be prepared to hike up a steep incline for the first 3 hours
4) Bring wet weather gear

After this 'rocky beginning' things in Saitama looked up. We soon realized we would not make it to the hut at the top of the mountain where we had planned to stay, so we stopped at a beautiful temple and asked around if there was somewhere close by to lodge for the night. By chance, Mitsumine Temple had a joining hotel including mountain views, onsen and a delicious dinner.

After being well bathed and rested, we decided to explore the surrounding region, and at the highest point reached 1500 meters about sea level. Walking amongst what seemed like a never-ending forest of trees, we passed many other hikers, who all happily greeted you with 'konnichiwa', and walked along jingling with bells attached to their bags. There were a lot of signs around warning people of the local bears, and I guess these bells were meant as protection.

Giddy with fresh air (and climbing fatigue), there is nothing quite like reaching the top of a mountain peak and looking down at how far you have come.

A quick bowl of soba before commencing the hike

Mitsumine Jinja

Much of Tokyo's water supply come from these mountains

To reach Kumotori-san:
Take the Seibu-Ikebukuro line to Chichibu, followed by the local rail to Mitsumineguchi
From Mitsumine, take the bus to Mitsumine Jinja shrine (to avoid the initial hike up the mountain).

When in Nagano...

This weekend I spent what I would consider the perfect winter escape from Tokyo.
Nagano can be reached from Tokyo within 4 hours, and comes complete with world class ski resorts, and some of the cutest monkeys you will ever see!

I joined a Tokyo Gaijin's tour, and boarded the bus late Friday night for the winding trip to Nagano. Saturday was spent cruising down the powder dusted slopes of Shiga Kogen. We got lucky with clear blue skies, and only a slight snow shower in the afternoon. Skiing was followed by an early evening of bathing my ski-weary limbs at the hotel onsen, and a delicious traditional style Japanese meal, complete with tempura apple! (Apples being a specialty in Nagano).

Shiga-Kogen 

Another Nagano highlight is getting up close and personal with the wild monkeys at Jigokudani Yaenkoen.
The story goes that the local monkeys use to venture in to the town in winter to find warmth and food. In order to prevent this, the townspeople created an area of hot-spring onsens for the monkeys to relax in and escape the cold (similar to what I had done the previous day). There are bathing monkeys, baby monkeys, and monkeys of all sizes which will walk through your legs, and apparently attack if you stare at them!

Old-man monkey, chilling in his natural hot tub 

Family pics 

Beautiful photos courtesy of Giles Tuck.