6.26.2011

Flea Markets @ Yoyogi-Koen

A lazy Sunday found me wandering by some flea markets next to the stadium in Yoyogi Koen. Blue tarp's lined the ground filled with used clothes, accessories, kids toys and various other knick knacks. And of course, no trip to the markets is complete without fresh yaki-soba off the tepan.

The Flea markets are held weekly at various locations around Tokyo.
The schedule can be found here (Japanese only, but works well with Google translate).



Tokyo Food - Bills Shichirigahama

I love the speed of Tokyo, yet every so often I feel the need to really slow down, and get away from the crowds and material temptations. Over the time I've spent in Japan I've discovered there is no place I like to go more than Kamakura, just one hour south of Tokyo. Kamakura offers scenic temples, the sea side, and a wonderful village atmosphere. To really get my taste of home however, I head a little further to Shichirigama to visit Bill Granger's venture in to Japanese dining.

Bills, already a staple in the Sydney brunch scene, has been transported to a Japanese sea-side location, where the food and atmosphere does not disappoint. On a Friday, we already have to put our name on a waiting list at 11:45am, as local's and people who have taken the trip from Tokyo vie to get a seat in the cosy restaurant.

Bills is filled with light, and looks over the rolling waves of Shichirigama. One side of the restaurant has couches and booths to relax in, whereas the other side is a slightly more formal restaurant setting. On this occasion, my friend and I were lucky enough to get a seat right by the balcony. As we watched other people's meals come out around us, we ooo'd and ahhh'd contemplating what to put together for our perfect brunch menu. Bills offers all day breakfast (difficult to come across in Japan), burgers, sandwiches and pastas. The dishes are simple, but come as generous servings cooked to perfection with fresh produce.

We finally settled on sweet corn fritters with crispy bacon to start, followed by a squid and chorizo risotto, and topped off with bill's famous ricotta pancakes which are soft, fluffy and perfectly balanced with maple syrup and banana. Everything was delicious, and we sat grinning from ear to ear as we took each bite.





Shichirigahama beach - Not great for swimming but gorgeous view

To get to bills from Tokyo take the Shonan Shinjuku, or Odakyuu line. A good breakdown of transport options is listed here. From Kamakura or Enoshima, take the local rail (Enoden) to Shichirigahama, and you will find Bills in the modern building in front of the station.

Breakfast and lunch reservations are not accepted, so I recommend getting in early.
Bill's website.

Enjoy!

6.04.2011

Tokyo Food - Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu

Before moving to Japan I heard a few things about the now famous Gonpachi. The first well known point is that Quentin Tarantino was inspired by the restaurant's Edo-style awnings and lanterns; so much that he recreated the space in the film Kill Bill. Secondly, a friend told me it was George Bush's favourite place to eat when he comes to Tokyo!?

Despite this little bit of trivia, Gonpachi has some very strong dishes. The traditional setting of the restaurant contrasts with Gonpachi's food, much of which is Japanese with a modern twist. Tempura avocado and cheese (this was a little strange), super spicy chicken wings, delicious bacon wrapped asparagus kushiyaki, succulent beef, and the beautiful-but-difficult-to-eat prawn dumplings. And that is not to mention the drewl-worthy sesame and chocolate desert, and original Gonpachi cocktails.

Gonpachi has sister restaurants in various locations around Tokyo, including in Shibuya. All restaurants have sections which specialise in kushiyaki (grilled skewers), soba and sushi. I am yet to try the sushi menu, but this is definitely on my to do list.

Gonpachi website (in English)

Asparagus with bacon kushiyaki

Spicy chicken wings

Chocolate pudding with sesame icecream

Gonpachi roof
Photos by Magnus Yang

Location

5.18.2011

Tokyo Food - Honmura An Soba, Roppongi

Honmura An is a diamond in the rough of Roppongi. The chef, Koichi Kobari, started his career as a restaurateur in New York, and has now spread his hand-made soba to his home, Japan.
You can see Kobari's Soho legacy in the minimalistic design of the room, and the addition of sides such as a delicious avocado salad, and Californian wines on the menu.

But what you come to Honmura An for is the soba. My friends and I tried an array of cold soba with various dipping sauces, hot soba in broth, and inari soba (tofu skin wrapped around soba noodles). CNNgo voted Honmura An's Tenzaru Soba as the number one soba dish in Tokyo for 2010, and it was definitely a highlight of the enjoyable meal. 

What really struck me however was the friendliness of Kobari himself, who seemed delighted and relieved to have a party of six foreigners attend his restaurant so soon after the Tohoku earthquake in March, despite the restaurant being full. Kobari carefully explained each dish to us, and described the best way to drink our overflowing cups of sake (which symbolise abundance). 

A further plus was the very reasonable bill at the end of the meal. I rate soba in my top 5 Japanese cuisines, and this is without doubt one to try.

Abundant cup of sake - Silver dish is to catch any that gets away!

Avocado Salad

Soba Inari

Tenzaru Soba
Soba in duck broth

Honmura An website in English
Map:

An Attempt to Hike Mt. Kumotori - Saitama

Golden Week marks a week long holiday in Japan, and with no work, and the warm Spring weather, many people use this time to escape the big city and head in to the Japanese wilderness. A couple of friends and I, somewhat ambitiously, decided to make our way to Saitama, and do a 2 day hike up Kumotori-san.
Despite a few showers, we experienced beautiful weather, magnificent natural scenery and perfect Japanese hospitality. Things at the beginning however, were not so rosy.

Some tips for hiking in Saitama:
1) The express trains to Chichibu National Park, which run hourly from Ikebukuro, are booked well in advance. Pre-book or get in early
2) Despite what many websites and English guide books may tell you, the cable car at the bottom of Mt. Kumotori has not been running for two years. My friends and I discovered this when after the 3 hour journey we asked our bus driver how to get to the cable car, and he informed us it does not exist
3) See above - be prepared to hike up a steep incline for the first 3 hours
4) Bring wet weather gear

After this 'rocky beginning' things in Saitama looked up. We soon realized we would not make it to the hut at the top of the mountain where we had planned to stay, so we stopped at a beautiful temple and asked around if there was somewhere close by to lodge for the night. By chance, Mitsumine Temple had a joining hotel including mountain views, onsen and a delicious dinner.

After being well bathed and rested, we decided to explore the surrounding region, and at the highest point reached 1500 meters about sea level. Walking amongst what seemed like a never-ending forest of trees, we passed many other hikers, who all happily greeted you with 'konnichiwa', and walked along jingling with bells attached to their bags. There were a lot of signs around warning people of the local bears, and I guess these bells were meant as protection.

Giddy with fresh air (and climbing fatigue), there is nothing quite like reaching the top of a mountain peak and looking down at how far you have come.

A quick bowl of soba before commencing the hike


Mitsumine Jinja

Much of Tokyo's water supply come from these mountains

To reach Kumotori-san:
Take the Seibu-Ikebukuro line to Chichibu, followed by the local rail to Mitsumineguchi
From Mitsumine, take the bus to Mitsumine Jinja shrine (to avoid the initial hike up the mountain).